Centellian24
CENTELLIAN24 Madeca Matcha Pore Cleansing Oil 200ml
Glycerin second. In a cleansing oil.
That is why it emulsifies clean — and why the bottle separates on the shelf. Shake it.
Light oil, rinses without a film.
What this cleansing oil does
A 200 ml two-phase cleansing oil — an oil layer and a water layer you shake together — carrying EGCG, three exfoliating acids and four centella triterpenes.
Why it has two layers
A conventional cleansing oil is oil and emulsifier, nothing else. This one has Glycerin at two, Water at four, Butylene Glycol at five and Camellia Sinensis Leaf Water at eight — a genuine water phase, sitting alongside Cetyl Ethylhexanoate at one and olive oil at seven.
Oil and water do not mix without help, so the bottle settles into two visible layers between uses. Shaking recombines them temporarily. The point of building it this way is that the water phase can carry things an oil cannot: the acids, the niacinamide, the green tea water, the centella compounds. In a single-phase oil, none of those would dissolve.
It also means the shake step is not optional. Skip it and you are using whichever layer poured out.
Three acids, in something you rinse off
Capryloyl Salicylic Acid (25), Lactic Acid (26) and Glycolic Acid (27) sit together — an LHA, an AHA that is also a natural moisturising factor, and the smallest and fastest AHA.
Be realistic about what three acids do during a sixty-second massage that ends in a rinse. This is not an acid treatment and it will not replace one. What it does do is add a mild extra exfoliating pass to a step you were performing anyway — which is fine, unless you are already using acids elsewhere, in which case it is one more exposure to count.
The green tea here is not just an extract
Epigallocatechin Gallate at 23 is EGCG — the single catechin that green tea research is mostly about, isolated rather than left inside a leaf extract. Buying the isolate costs considerably more than buying the extract, and most products that say "matcha" do not.
Green tea also appears as leaf water (8), seed oil (28) and leaf extract (43).
Fragrance is the ninth ingredient
Fragrance (Parfum) at position nine is high — above the acids, above the EGCG, above every botanical on the list. This is a strongly scented product, and that is a deliberate choice about the experience of using it, not an accident.
For most people a rinse-off product is where fragrance matters least, since contact is brief. If you avoid fragrance entirely, this is not the cleansing oil for you and the position on the label is why.
Key ingredients
Ingredient · What it is, and what it is used for
- Epigallocatechin Gallate
- The principal catechin of green tea, isolated. Used to slow oxidation, in the formula and on skin.
- Cetyl Ethylhexanoate
- Fatty acid ester. The main cleansing oil — light, and it rinses cleaner than a plant oil.
- Polyglyceryl-10 Diisostearate
- Polyglyceryl ester. Lets the oil rinse away with water instead of leaving a film. Third on this list.
- Candida Bombicola/Glucose/Methyl Rapeseedate Ferment
- A sophorolipid — a surfactant made by yeast fermentation rather than synthesis. Uncommon.
- Capryloyl Salicylic Acid
- Lipo-hydroxy acid (LHA), a fat-chain salicylic acid derivative. Oil-soluble, slower and more surface-bound than salicylic acid.
- Lactic Acid
- Alpha hydroxy acid. Also one of skin's own natural moisturising factors, which is unusual for an acid.
- Glycolic Acid
- Alpha hydroxy acid, the smallest of its class.
- Asiaticoside
- The best studied of the centella triterpenes. Used to calm the look of redness.
- Madecassoside
- Triterpene glycoside from Centella asiatica. Used to slow oxidation; used to calm irritation. Last on this list.
- Olea Europaea (Olive) Fruit Oil
- Oil from olive fruit. Sits on top and slows how fast water leaves. Seventh on this list.
- Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil
- Argan oil, pressed from the kernel. Softens by filling the gaps between surface cells.
- Zanthoxylum Piperitum Fruit Extract
- Extract of Korean sancho pepper fruit.
How the formula works together
All four centella triterpenes are here — Asiaticoside, Madecassic Acid and Asiatic Acid at 19 to 21, and Madecassoside closing the list at 49. That is a complete set, which is rarer than it sounds; most centella products carry three.
The emulsifier system is three polyglyceryl esters plus a yeast-fermented sophorolipid, which is what turns the oil milky when you add water. Citric Acid and Sodium Citrate buffer the water phase so the acids stay in a working range.
Forty-nine ingredients, and the last eighteen are almost all botanical: coffee seed, persimmon leaf, grape, soymilk, safflower, Japanese knotweed, chestnut shell, sancho pepper, rice.
Who it is for
Labelled for all skin types, as a first cleanse. Good for congested or oily skin that wants makeup and sunscreen off without a heavy residue. Strongly fragranced, and contains three acids — worth counting if the rest of your routine already exfoliates.
How to use it
- Shake the bottle until the two layers combine. This step is not optional.
- Apply to a dry face and massage gently to dissolve makeup and sunscreen.
- Wet your hands slightly and keep massaging until the oil turns milky.
- Rinse thoroughly with lukewarm water, then follow with a foaming cleanser.
Details
- Size
- 200 ml
- Made in
- Korea
- Format
- Two-phase — separates on standing, shake before every use
- Contains
- Fragrance at position 9; three exfoliating acids
- Ingredients
- 49, published in full below
Full ingredient list
Cetyl Ethylhexanoate, Glycerin, Polyglyceryl-10 Diisostearate, Water, Butylene Glycol, Polyglyceryl-6 Dicaprate, Olea Europaea (Olive) Fruit Oil, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Water, Fragrance (Parfum), Ethylhexylglycerin, Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Seed Oil, Ethoxydiglycol, Ocimum Sanctum Leaf Extract, 1,2-Hexanediol, Sodium Citrate, Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate, Fructooligosaccharides, Citric Acid, Asiaticoside, Madecassic Acid, Asiatic Acid, Tocopherol, Epigallocatechin Gallate, Hamamelis Virginiana (Witch Hazel) Water, Capryloyl Salicylic Acid, Lactic Acid, Glycolic Acid, Camellia Sinensis Seed Oil, Niacinamide, Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil, Candida Bombicola/Glucose/Methyl Rapeseedate Ferment, Dipropylene Glycol, Salix Nigra (Willow) Bark Extract, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil, Centella Asiatica Leaf Extract, Hydroxyacetophenone, Coffea Arabica (Coffee) Seed Extract, Diospyros Kaki Leaf Extract, Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Fruit Extract, Disodium EDTA, Soymilk, Carthamus Tinctorius (Safflower) Flower Extract, Polygonum Cuspidatum Root Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Castanea Crenata (Chestnut) Shell Extract, Zanthoxylum Piperitum Fruit Extract, Oryza Sativa (Rice) Extract, Centella Asiatica Extract, Madecassoside
In label order, unedited.
Ships from Korea.
